A little while ago I wrote up some details of every grip type. Finally getting around to posting them!OPEN HAND GRIPThis grip position places a lot less stress on the finger joints and tendons. The amount of force on your A2 pulley using the the crimp grip vs. the open hand grip is over 36x! So when you climb try your best to use this type of grip wherever you can.This position can be trained to become one of your strongest grip positions and is most effective on deep, rounded, sloper or pocket holds.Take home – Keep the angle between your distal and middle phalanx as open or large as possible! – Use the open hand grip EVERYWHERE! train with it, embrace it, become one with it. @hubclimbing

posted on December 6, 2017 by | No comments

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Can you do these shoulder dislocations with such a narrow grip??? Try it! Use this to warm up before climbing! Before dodgeball! Before anything where you&;ll need your shoulders. @jemma_lee32 (@get_repost)・・・I strongly feel that mobility (and flexibility) training should be prioritised – how can you really develop full strength if you cannot move through a full range of motion? Not only this, but being able to move freely helps to prevent injury and improve recovery. And in Gymnastics Strength Training, if your joints cannot move safely through a full range then you WILL hit a road block when it comes to progressing certain skills. There are simply no shortcuts when it comes to improving mobility. More is not always better. A reasonable amount, done consistently over time, with a dose of patience will go a long way PS: these standing shoulder inlocates are great as a mobility exercise and pre-hab tool. Always room to improve, but when I first attempted this exercise 18 months ago I needed a longer stick gst

posted on November 15, 2017 by | No comments

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This is the Hawkin&;s kennedy test – it&;s an orthopaedic test designed to be coupled with a few other tests in order to test for subacromial impingement – often coupled with the painful arc and an infraspinatus test.To try this – keep the upper arm parallel to the floor, and rotate the forearm inwards towards the ground, you can do this at various angles as you move the arm across the body.Either try this yourself or have someone try this on you. If it hurts you may have some sub-acromial impingement! Ask yourself: Do I do a lot of repetitive overhead movements?Does it hurt when I throw right in the front point of the shoulder?Do I avoid certain movements because it hurts or feels awkward?Do I favor one side over the other because of this?Book an assessment with a professional as there are plenty of factors that can contribute to this. To name a few: Weak rotator cuff musclesTight rotator cuff musclesImproper glenohumeral rhythmPoor movement patternsThoracic spine limitationsSICK scapula

posted on September 25, 2017 by | No comments

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[Finger anatomy series 3/3] 3.The Proximal Interphalangeal joint or PIPNow that you know about the flexor tendons, the function of the pulleys and where they tend to pull, you should be able to guess why the PIP joint is so important!The PIP is the main joint that dictates the forces along the pulleys due to the position and angle of pull from the forces of the tendons.Demonstrated here is more of a hanging grip or an open handed grip. The angle of the PIP in this image is quite large and thus the resultant forces on the pulleys is minimal !! The SMALLER angle in the PIP = GREATER forces on the pulleys! Take this into consideration when thinking about how you grip your holds! I&;ll demonstrate with some more pictures in the following posts!

posted on August 22, 2017 by | No comments

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