A little while ago I wrote up some details of every grip type. Finally getting around to posting them!OPEN HAND GRIPThis grip position places a lot less stress on the finger joints and tendons. The amount of force on your A2 pulley using the the crimp grip vs. the open hand grip is over 36x! So when you climb try your best to use this type of grip wherever you can.This position can be trained to become one of your strongest grip positions and is most effective on deep, rounded, sloper or pocket holds.Take home - Keep the angle between your distal and middle phalanx as open or large as possible! - Use the open hand grip EVERYWHERE! train with it, embrace it, become one with it. @hubclimbing - The Health Box

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A little while ago I wrote up some details of every grip type. Finally getting around to posting them!OPEN HAND GRIPThis grip position places a lot less stress on the finger joints and tendons. The amount of force on your A2 pulley using the the crimp grip vs. the open hand grip is over 36x! So when you climb try your best to use this type of grip wherever you can.This position can be trained to become one of your strongest grip positions and is most effective on deep, rounded, sloper or pocket holds.Take home – Keep the angle between your distal and middle phalanx as open or large as possible! – Use the open hand grip EVERYWHERE! train with it, embrace it, become one with it. @hubclimbing

posted on December 6, 2017 by Dr. Jonathan Leung | Leave your thoughts

Posted in Instagram | Tagged: bodyweightfitness, bouldering, calisthenics, change, chiropractic, climbing, crossfit, education, fitness, function, gripseries, markham, medicine, mobility, movement, posture, rehab, rockclimbing, stability, strength, toronto, training

« Can you do these shoulder dislocations with such a narrow grip??? Try it! Use this to warm up before climbing! Before dodgeball! Before anything where you&;ll need your shoulders. @jemma_lee32 (@get_repost)・・・I strongly feel that mobility (and flexibility) training should be prioritised – how can you really develop full strength if you cannot move through a full range of motion? Not only this, but being able to move freely helps to prevent injury and improve recovery. And in Gymnastics Strength Training, if your joints cannot move safely through a full range then you WILL hit a road block when it comes to progressing certain skills. There are simply no shortcuts when it comes to improving mobility. More is not always better. A reasonable amount, done consistently over time, with a dose of patience will go a long way PS: these standing shoulder inlocates are great as a mobility exercise and pre-hab tool. Always room to improve, but when I first attempted this exercise 18 months ago I needed a longer stick gst

THE PINCHThe pinch grip is important as it helps with everything. Use it with any opposing edges, any groove you can find, anywhere and everywhere! Indoor rock climbing, with its protruding holds has evolved to provide you with a tonne of surface area to use your thumb!Our thumbs are strong and can really help us lock down on a hold so use your thumb wherever you can. Narrow pinches create some hyperextension into the DIPs – so places you in a half crimp type position.Wider pinches allow for an open hand position and often force extension at the wrist.This is, in my opinion one of the best grips to train (it&;s my greatest weakness!) You can train your grip using a protocol of sub-failure pinch holds ( »

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