A little while ago I wrote up some details of every grip type. Finally getting around to posting them!OPEN HAND GRIPThis grip position places a lot less stress on the finger joints and tendons. The amount of force on your A2 pulley using the the crimp grip vs. the open hand grip is over 36x! So when you climb try your best to use this type of grip wherever you can.This position can be trained to become one of your strongest grip positions and is most effective on deep, rounded, sloper or pocket holds.Take home – Keep the angle between your distal and middle phalanx as open or large as possible! – Use the open hand grip EVERYWHERE! train with it, embrace it, become one with it. @hubclimbing

posted on December 6, 2017 by | No comments

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[Finger anatomy series 3/3] 3.The Proximal Interphalangeal joint or PIPNow that you know about the flexor tendons, the function of the pulleys and where they tend to pull, you should be able to guess why the PIP joint is so important!The PIP is the main joint that dictates the forces along the pulleys due to the position and angle of pull from the forces of the tendons.Demonstrated here is more of a hanging grip or an open handed grip. The angle of the PIP in this image is quite large and thus the resultant forces on the pulleys is minimal !! The SMALLER angle in the PIP = GREATER forces on the pulleys! Take this into consideration when thinking about how you grip your holds! I&;ll demonstrate with some more pictures in the following posts!

posted on August 22, 2017 by | No comments

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[Finger anatomy series 2/3] 2. Annular Pulleys These puppies prevent your finger from doing something known as bowstringing. These pulleys are fibrous bands that are used to maintain the contact of the finger tendon along the bone. What they do is transmit the force of the tendon into different angles of pull. Without them our hands wouldn&;t function very well and would look very weird. Bowstringing occurs when there has been a COMPLETE pulley rupture. With climbing the A2, A4 and A3 are most commonly injured!A2 is the largest of them all and attaches directly to bone. This one takes the brunt of the work when we go to climb or crimp!A3 attaches to whats known as the volar plate – it doesn&;t really attach directly to the bone! This is super super important when ADOLESCENTS or younger adults are climbing as an injury here can PERMANENTLY affect a GROWTH PLATE! It can potentially cause dramatic issues for their future. A rule of is if an adolescent complains of finger injury – SEEK PROFESSIONAL HELP. A4 attaches to the bone directly as well closer to the finger tip and is much smaller than the A2. How can you use this to help? Put less strain on your pulleys! Warm up with progressive bodyweight when crimping. Slow and steady wins the race. Feel free and content with any questions or concerns but up next is the PIP and how to crimp safer and stronger!

posted on August 18, 2017 by | No comments

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1. Flexor tendonsThe flexor tendons in the fingers occur because the muscles of the forearms become tendons as they enter the carpel tunnel into the hand.As you can see from the first image we have a bunch of other muscles of the forearm that affect motion of the hand and wrist. Well ignore those for now! First up is the Flexor digitorum superficialis or FDS. Swipe ️ and see it visualized again with its interaction with its deeper counterpart. The Flexor digitorum profundus or FDP is the deeper muscle that extends to the finger tip and helps us with flexing the entire fingerFDS is a tendon that splits into a V to allow the deeper FDP to run between it right to the tip! It inserts into the middle phalanx and flexes primarily the PIP joint. The design of these two tendons contribute to why we have such fine motor control at our fingers but it&;d be a shame if these tendons didn&;t have anything strong to hold them down! Next up. Pulleys.

posted on August 17, 2017 by | No comments

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