A common climbing problem is pain on the inside portion of the wrist. Sometimes this pain can be a result to damage to the red circle – or TFCC, which is a cartilage structure on the pinky finger side of the wrist. It&;s function is to support and cushion the small bones of the wrist and stabilize the bones of the forearm (radius and ulna) when the hand grasps or the forearm rotates. It&;s important to strengthen the wrist in more than just flexion and extension. When doing this exercise you are working your wrist using radial and ulnar deviation. Keep in mind the following:Stabilize the forearmSmooth, steady controlled motionGrab closer to the CENTER of the stick for an EASIER exercise Grab closer to the END of the stick for a HARDER exercise Rinse and repeat 20 times as part of your warm up or for sets as an integral part of wrist maintenance series

posted on March 22, 2017 by | No comments

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Broomstick rotations or Pronation and supination of the arm.Another wrist mobilization and a strengthening exercise I use as part of my wrist sequence. Supination is the motion similar to if you were to try and scoop up some water with your hand and have a drink or to tighten a screwdriver (Righty tighty). Pronation is the opposite motion.Using a broomstick perform this action in a SLOW and controlled setting and you&;ll feel your forearms working hard. The more midline to the stick you are grabbing the easier the movement. The closer to the end you grab, the more resistance you will feel. This happens because you are changing the centre of gravity of the object. Do sets of 20 reps for both arms and enjoy your bulletproof wrists. series

posted on March 21, 2017 by | No comments

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Ulnar / radial deviation fist or patent pending URDF! This is both a wrist mobilization and a strengthening exercise I use as part of my wrist sequence. It is using what&;s known as a closed kinetic chain (the hand is fixed against the ground) eccentric movement(you contract your muscles while they lengthen) The more weight you apply with your body the more tension there is on your muscles. Start off with minimal bodyweight and slowly progress through the motion feeling the end ranges of your wrist. This exercise is great used as a warmup before crushing and to bulletproof your wrist. You can also use it after the sharp pain subsides with a series

posted on March 14, 2017 by | No comments

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This is a basic wrist flexion stretch which will help build the foundation of mobility required in the wrists for things such as on the rings. This stretches out the extensor group of muscles and tendons located on the outside and backhand side of your arm. The tendons responsible for extension of your fingers and wrist originate at a common origin known as the lateral epicondyle of your arm near the elbow. This is the overused muscle group in or lateral epicondylitis! Here I&;m performing 5s hold with pulses and slowly changing the angles at which I press at to target different areas of the wrist. I do this by rotating my elbows slightly further or less. You can also try and perform 3-5 reps of 15s isometric contractions and relax periods of 30s. (Once again you want to try and spend a minimal total of 90s in the stretch)When performing a static isometric stretch you assume the position of the stretch to target the muscles of the forearm, then you tense the muscle against the floor (without actually moving!) Hold that muscular tension for 15s, then relax for about 30s. Rinse and repeat until your desired length! Happy stretching. series

posted on March 2, 2017 by | No comments

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This is a basic wrist extension stretch which will help build the foundation of mobility required in the wrists for things such as . This stretches out the flexor group of muscles and tendons on the palm side of your arm. I like doing 5s hold with pulses and slowly changing the angles at which I press at to target different areas of the wrist. I do this by rotating my elbows slightly further or less and with most of my stretching I try and perform 20 reps of 5s pulses or a minimal total of 90s. This is a type of stretching that encorporates what&;s known as proprioceptive neuromuscular facilitation stretching or PNF. It enhances both active and passive range of motion in order to improve motor performance and aid rehabilitation. The specific type of PNF I am using here is a &;Contract Relax&; technique. practor series

posted on February 4, 2017 by | No comments

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