A little while ago I wrote up some details of every grip type. Finally getting around to posting them!OPEN HAND GRIPThis grip position places a lot less stress on the finger joints and tendons. The amount of force on your A2 pulley using the the crimp grip vs. the open hand grip is over 36x! So when you climb try your best to use this type of grip wherever you can.This position can be trained to become one of your strongest grip positions and is most effective on deep, rounded, sloper or pocket holds.Take home – Keep the angle between your distal and middle phalanx as open or large as possible! – Use the open hand grip EVERYWHERE! train with it, embrace it, become one with it. @hubclimbing

posted on December 6, 2017 by | No comments

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This is the Hawkin&;s kennedy test – it&;s an orthopaedic test designed to be coupled with a few other tests in order to test for subacromial impingement – often coupled with the painful arc and an infraspinatus test.To try this – keep the upper arm parallel to the floor, and rotate the forearm inwards towards the ground, you can do this at various angles as you move the arm across the body.Either try this yourself or have someone try this on you. If it hurts you may have some sub-acromial impingement! Ask yourself: Do I do a lot of repetitive overhead movements?Does it hurt when I throw right in the front point of the shoulder?Do I avoid certain movements because it hurts or feels awkward?Do I favor one side over the other because of this?Book an assessment with a professional as there are plenty of factors that can contribute to this. To name a few: Weak rotator cuff musclesTight rotator cuff musclesImproper glenohumeral rhythmPoor movement patternsThoracic spine limitationsSICK scapula

posted on September 25, 2017 by | No comments

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