Bright and early for some knowledge. Never too early to learn. Some climbing and sport specific knowledge to cater to my climbing and calisthenics patient population! Excited for an awesome 2 days of learning with like minded individuals! @climbmovetherapyLooking to share of that knowledge with you guys in the next few posts - The Health Box

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Bright and early for some knowledge. Never too early to learn. Some climbing and sport specific knowledge to cater to my climbing and calisthenics patient population! Excited for an awesome 2 days of learning with like minded individuals! @climbmovetherapyLooking to share of that knowledge with you guys in the next few posts

posted on July 31, 2017 by Dr. Jonathan Leung | Leave your thoughts

Posted in Instagram | Tagged: backandbetter, calisthenics, climbing, coffee, education, medicine, movement, neverstoplearning, rehab, training

« A to improving your climbing is to work on your weaknesses. These movements target two of my greatest weaknesses: . thoracic spine extensionshoulder extensionHere are 2 great openers I&;ve been working on:The first one targets more thoracic extension as I limit the motion into my shoulders by bringing them in closer to the wall. Simply stick your butt out further as you sink your body down and take 5 diaphragmatic breaths and bring your chest / face towards the wall. You can target specific vertebra segments depending on how far you stick your butt outSwipe ️ for a modification for targeting more of the shoulders and through the lats. This time try and bring your chest down at a 45 degree angle towards the ground in front of you. . Try these as part of your mobility work before climbing, handstanding or before calisthenics!

Swipe ️ to see all the climbing grip types. Climbers use their hands in a multitude of ways. This series of will demonstrate the various positions of climbing and grip types.Back to basics. Different hold positions.full crimphalf crimpopen crimppocketnarrow pinchfat pinchopen handPay attention to the positions of each grip and think about the angles between the MIDDLE knuckle in each hold type. This joint is the Proximal Interphalangeal joint or the PIP for short. Notice how the finger position in the pocket is very similar to a half crimp position? Sometimes even the open crimp/open hand position! Only on fewer fingers. The pinch grips are the SAME as the open grip position! Some of you advanced or pro climbers say Dr. Jon! That ain&;t all of them!… Well then here&;s a more exhaustive list but they all use the same concepts as above! What about slopers?Slopers use an open hand grip type to ensure maximum surface area contact for a friction based gripWhat about underclings? a jug hold with open hand/ half crimp grip stylesWhat of a Gaston? This along with the mantle is more of a pushing grip instead of pulling. Gaston is often in a half grip positionMantle is a open hand max surface area friction moveThe absolute best grip in terms of climbing longevity and strain on the fingers hand and pulleys is the OPEN HAND grip type. Remember this. Think about why it may be the case! My next post will showcase some of the anatomy of the finger focusing mainly on the pulleys! Stay tuned. »

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