A common climbing problem is pain on the inside portion of the wrist. Sometimes this pain can be a result to damage to the red circle – or TFCC, which is a cartilage structure on the pinky finger side of the wrist. It&;s function is to support and cushion the small bones of the wrist and stabilize the bones of the forearm (radius and ulna) when the hand grasps or the forearm rotates. It&;s important to strengthen the wrist in more than just flexion and extension. When doing this exercise you are working your wrist using radial and ulnar deviation. Keep in mind the following:Stabilize the forearmSmooth, steady controlled motionGrab closer to the CENTER of the stick for an EASIER exercise Grab closer to the END of the stick for a HARDER exercise Rinse and repeat 20 times as part of your warm up or for sets as an integral part of wrist maintenance series

posted on March 22, 2017 by | No comments

by

Broomstick rotations or Pronation and supination of the arm.Another wrist mobilization and a strengthening exercise I use as part of my wrist sequence. Supination is the motion similar to if you were to try and scoop up some water with your hand and have a drink or to tighten a screwdriver (Righty tighty). Pronation is the opposite motion.Using a broomstick perform this action in a SLOW and controlled setting and you&;ll feel your forearms working hard. The more midline to the stick you are grabbing the easier the movement. The closer to the end you grab, the more resistance you will feel. This happens because you are changing the centre of gravity of the object. Do sets of 20 reps for both arms and enjoy your bulletproof wrists. series

posted on March 21, 2017 by | No comments

by

Ulnar / radial deviation fist or patent pending URDF! This is both a wrist mobilization and a strengthening exercise I use as part of my wrist sequence. It is using what&;s known as a closed kinetic chain (the hand is fixed against the ground) eccentric movement(you contract your muscles while they lengthen) The more weight you apply with your body the more tension there is on your muscles. Start off with minimal bodyweight and slowly progress through the motion feeling the end ranges of your wrist. This exercise is great used as a warmup before crushing and to bulletproof your wrist. You can also use it after the sharp pain subsides with a series

posted on March 14, 2017 by | No comments

by

Grand opening of last weekend. Tremendously awesome setting. Extremely clean problems albeit super high. This dyno problem I&;ll call &;Plato&;s cave&; I&;m counting towards my 12 goals this year. Watching the competitive circuit at the end of the day really gave me perspective as to just how biomechanically efficient and effective climbers can be. Continually learning as I study their movement patterns and how small adjustments in technique result in greater contact strength. Depending on your beta you can use your own personal strengths to your advantage and everyone can overcome problems in their own way. _is_my_passion

posted on February 18, 2017 by | No comments

by

Yesterday you wrote page one. With the new year brings new beginnings. I have never been a large proponent for new years resolutions as many simply make goals they should have accomplished in 2015, or 2014, or 2013.. They do not follow the few golden rules to goal setting. This year, make goals that follow the SMART principle: Specific, Measurable, Attainable, Relavent, Time bound. In addition to following the SMART principle, you should also:1. Set goals to motivate you.2. Create an action plan to map out how you will achieve your goals.3. Write them down. Better yet, comment/share this post with your goals for 2017.4. Stay true to your goals! It takes 6 weeks for your actions to become habits. Great things happen to those who set goals and crush.I&;ll share with you guys one of my goals:This year in climbing I intend to crush 5 v6&;s, 20 v5&;s and perform a single one arm pull up(OAPU). I have a specific training protocol I intend to follow to perform the OAPU and will adapted my warm up and climbing training to help me complete V6&;s as they are set at the hub.

posted on January 2, 2017 by | No comments

by

« Older posts
Newer posts »