The finger is comprised of a number of joints, muscles, tendons, and many pulleys!Visualized here is your index finger! In the next posts we will will focus on 3 things: Flexor tendonsAnnular pulleysProximal Interphalangeal joint (PIP)There are many other components to the finger that are important to climbing. Injuries to these areas such as the joint capsules of each phalanx, each knuckle (capsule tissue injuries/capsulitis), the lumbrical muscles (another finger muscle injury source!) and the volar plates. (super super important for ADOLESCENT climbers! Attn: coaches) stay tuned.

posted on August 17, 2017 by | No comments

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Swipe ️ to see all the climbing grip types. Climbers use their hands in a multitude of ways. This series of will demonstrate the various positions of climbing and grip types.Back to basics. Different hold positions.full crimphalf crimpopen crimppocketnarrow pinchfat pinchopen handPay attention to the positions of each grip and think about the angles between the MIDDLE knuckle in each hold type. This joint is the Proximal Interphalangeal joint or the PIP for short. Notice how the finger position in the pocket is very similar to a half crimp position? Sometimes even the open crimp/open hand position! Only on fewer fingers. The pinch grips are the SAME as the open grip position! Some of you advanced or pro climbers say Dr. Jon! That ain&;t all of them!… Well then here&;s a more exhaustive list but they all use the same concepts as above! What about slopers?Slopers use an open hand grip type to ensure maximum surface area contact for a friction based gripWhat about underclings? a jug hold with open hand/ half crimp grip stylesWhat of a Gaston? This along with the mantle is more of a pushing grip instead of pulling. Gaston is often in a half grip positionMantle is a open hand max surface area friction moveThe absolute best grip in terms of climbing longevity and strain on the fingers hand and pulleys is the OPEN HAND grip type. Remember this. Think about why it may be the case! My next post will showcase some of the anatomy of the finger focusing mainly on the pulleys! Stay tuned.

posted on August 16, 2017 by | No comments

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A to improving your climbing is to work on your weaknesses. These movements target two of my greatest weaknesses: . thoracic spine extensionshoulder extensionHere are 2 great openers I&;ve been working on:The first one targets more thoracic extension as I limit the motion into my shoulders by bringing them in closer to the wall. Simply stick your butt out further as you sink your body down and take 5 diaphragmatic breaths and bring your chest / face towards the wall. You can target specific vertebra segments depending on how far you stick your butt outSwipe ️ for a modification for targeting more of the shoulders and through the lats. This time try and bring your chest down at a 45 degree angle towards the ground in front of you. . Try these as part of your mobility work before climbing, handstanding or before calisthenics!

posted on July 15, 2017 by | No comments

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A Winging scapula is a result of weakness of the Serratus Anterior muscle or damage to the long thoracic nerve which supplies this muscle. The result is a protruding shoulder blade into the back.Test yourself – While wearing a tank top:Put yourself in a pushup position against the wallLean forward into your handsAsk somebody to take a picture for you.Do you notice a bump on one side versus the other?If you don&;t have a friend – go into the washroom and take a look at your shoulder heights.Do you notice one shoulder significantly lower than the other?If you do. You have scapular winging. This can affect your ability to lift, pull, or push objects. The reason is because scapular winging is a muscular imbalance which results in malpositioning of the shoulder blade. This disrupts the Scapulohumeral rhythm – which is the optimal ratio of movement when you lift your arm from your side above your head. If this is a result from a long thoracic nn entrapment Active Release Therapy or ART can definitely help with this nervous entrapment. Proper positioning and movement of the scapula is critical for full and normal shoulder range of motion. Without it, your scapular is SICK! (Scapular malposition, Inferior medial border prominence, Coracoid pain and malposition, and dysKinesis of scapular movement) SICK scapula or scapular dyskinesis refers to an injury resulting from overuse and fatigue of the muscles that stabilize and provide motion for the scapula.To counteract it we want to:. Treat the underlying soft tissue adhesionsStrengthen the affected musclesGrease the groove and provide stimuli to maintain the positioning and movement of the scapula

posted on May 30, 2017 by | No comments

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