The finger is comprised of a number of joints, muscles, tendons, and many pulleys!Visualized here is your index finger! In the next posts we will will focus on 3 things: Flexor tendonsAnnular pulleysProximal Interphalangeal joint (PIP)There are many other components to the finger that are important to climbing. Injuries to these areas such as the joint capsules of each phalanx, each knuckle (capsule tissue injuries/capsulitis), the lumbrical muscles (another finger muscle injury source!) and the volar plates. (super super important for ADOLESCENT climbers! Attn: coaches) stay tuned. - The Health Box

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The finger is comprised of a number of joints, muscles, tendons, and many pulleys!Visualized here is your index finger! In the next posts we will will focus on 3 things: Flexor tendonsAnnular pulleysProximal Interphalangeal joint (PIP)There are many other components to the finger that are important to climbing. Injuries to these areas such as the joint capsules of each phalanx, each knuckle (capsule tissue injuries/capsulitis), the lumbrical muscles (another finger muscle injury source!) and the volar plates. (super super important for ADOLESCENT climbers! Attn: coaches) stay tuned.

posted on August 17, 2017 by Dr. Jonathan Leung | Leave your thoughts

Posted in Instagram | Tagged: anatomy, bodyweightfitness, bouldering, calisthenics, change, chiropractic, climbing, crossfit, education, finger, fitness, function, injury, markham, medicine, mobility, movement, posture, pulley, rehab, rockclimbing, sprain, stability, strength, toronto, training

« Swipe ️ to see all the climbing grip types. Climbers use their hands in a multitude of ways. This series of will demonstrate the various positions of climbing and grip types.Back to basics. Different hold positions.full crimphalf crimpopen crimppocketnarrow pinchfat pinchopen handPay attention to the positions of each grip and think about the angles between the MIDDLE knuckle in each hold type. This joint is the Proximal Interphalangeal joint or the PIP for short. Notice how the finger position in the pocket is very similar to a half crimp position? Sometimes even the open crimp/open hand position! Only on fewer fingers. The pinch grips are the SAME as the open grip position! Some of you advanced or pro climbers say Dr. Jon! That ain&;t all of them!… Well then here&;s a more exhaustive list but they all use the same concepts as above! What about slopers?Slopers use an open hand grip type to ensure maximum surface area contact for a friction based gripWhat about underclings? a jug hold with open hand/ half crimp grip stylesWhat of a Gaston? This along with the mantle is more of a pushing grip instead of pulling. Gaston is often in a half grip positionMantle is a open hand max surface area friction moveThe absolute best grip in terms of climbing longevity and strain on the fingers hand and pulleys is the OPEN HAND grip type. Remember this. Think about why it may be the case! My next post will showcase some of the anatomy of the finger focusing mainly on the pulleys! Stay tuned.

1. Flexor tendonsThe flexor tendons in the fingers occur because the muscles of the forearms become tendons as they enter the carpel tunnel into the hand.As you can see from the first image we have a bunch of other muscles of the forearm that affect motion of the hand and wrist. Well ignore those for now! First up is the Flexor digitorum superficialis or FDS. Swipe ️ and see it visualized again with its interaction with its deeper counterpart. The Flexor digitorum profundus or FDP is the deeper muscle that extends to the finger tip and helps us with flexing the entire fingerFDS is a tendon that splits into a V to allow the deeper FDP to run between it right to the tip! It inserts into the middle phalanx and flexes primarily the PIP joint. The design of these two tendons contribute to why we have such fine motor control at our fingers but it&;d be a shame if these tendons didn&;t have anything strong to hold them down! Next up. Pulleys. »

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